Saturday, May 12, 2007

Thrilling Thorang and Yak's meat: Nepal

Thrilling Thorang and Yak's meat

By Chakra Karki

As soon as my friend Pasangkaji Sherpa offered me a trip to the vicinity of snowbound Annarpurna, I instantly agreed. With that maneuver in mind, we set off on a bus to Besisahar of Lamjung. Being proficient in French language, Pasang was leading a group of French tourists along with us. With the advent of Nepali New Year (Baisakh 1), our team of fifteen French visitors and sixteen Nepali travelers embarked on the foot expedition from Besisahar to Knadhi.

On our way, the foreigners learned about our Nepali New Year and were curious to know the manner in which it is celebrated, for they thought that Nepali New Year is also celebrated with much hype and fanfares like theirs. After a series of queries, the bugged guides and Sherpas got away saying, “In the capital, it is rejoiced in a grand manner, however, in a trip like this, we don't have enough resources for revelry.” As planned, we celebrated our new year with local Gurung community in a modest manner.

Making the journey to Annapurna more appealing was Pasang with his fascinating talks about the snow-capped mountain and the noteworthy hospitality of the people in the area.

Though he belonged to Solukhumbu, he seemed to be more attached with Annapurna locale. He was saying over and again, “The amiability of the people there is remarkable, especially hotel personnels.” As we got closer to our destination, the maxim of Pasang appeared to be genuine. Not only were they cordial to foreigners but also to Nepali visitors, including porters and guides. They made a point to give equal importance to everybody, which made me believe in what Pasang has said earlier.

When it came to meat products, Pasang was one hell of a gluttonous being. To be particular, he could comfortably gobble down some 14 plates of meat. Throughout the journey, he was planning to feast on Yak's meat as soon as he gets to Manang. He was proudly recalling, “When I came for a round trip to Annapurna, I devoured 14 plates of fishes instead of rice at Malekhu.” With ravenous looks, he would talk about delectable Yak's meat. I got to taste one when we reached Pisang. At first, it was very difficult to chew up Yak's dry meat. While I was explaining him about my troubled first experience of Yak's meat, he would resolutely clarify how delicious they actually are. There wouldn't be a single day when he wouldn't devour on 2-3 plates of Yak's meat.

One of the chief routes to Annapurna was Thorang. Every visitor intending to go to Annapurna vicinity had to pass Thorang. When we were in Manang, Pasang had informed us that our entire trip would almost finish while reaching Thorang. He would also persuade us to relish the captivating scenery of Thorang. After our two-night stay at Manang, through Chureledar route, we reached Thorang Fedi. Looking at the huge crowd of tourists aiming to cross Thorang pass, we began to doubt about getting a lodge to stay that day. Thorang Fedi is the starting point to cross Thorang pass. From the early morning, travelers mount up enough energy to traverse Thorang. With the similar commitment, we spent our night at a local lodge in Thorang Fedi.

As a team leader, Pasang was more sincere and responsible than other trekkers. He knew exactly what to do and would never hesitate to guide others. After we decided to reach Thorang Pass by early morning, we started off at 3 am from Thorang Fedi. Some 300 tourists were on their way to Thorang pass, all capturing the surrounding breathtaking mountains on their cameras. The splendor of Thorang enthralled even Israeli tourists who overlooked the beauty of Afghanistan for that particular moment.

Walking up the hill, one foreigner from our group got unwell and Pasang devoted all his time and knowledge to help his guest who had crossed sixty years. Most of the French visitors were of similar age group and it was theirs first time to Annapurna. Swiss Clera was the youngest of all foreigners and would never miss a chance to demonstrate her youthfulness. She would constantly inquire about Nepali culture and Himalayas.

After four hours of demanding walk, we reached Thorang Pass situated at 5,416 meters high; Thorang was surrounded by captivating mountains that were glowing under the beaming sun. The gigantic mountains made us forget our previous harsh route and made all our efforts worth it. As Thorang Peak beamed in front of us, it reminded me of the Mount Kailash of Tibet. Passing Thorang, we made our way to Mustang. Every year, nearly 40,000 tourists come to visit Round Annapurna. Please talk about heaven and after my trip, I believe that heaven is in Earth, if one knows how to explore.

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